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125-2 Miyajima-cho, Itsukushima

In the residential backstreets of Itsukushima sits a quaint little restaurant that has been serving up anagomeishi, eel in a spicy sauce over rice, since the Meiji era.  We almost walked right past the door, such was its innocuousness.

A quick digression - the large wooden shakushi (spatula) hanging above the window to the right is used to scoop cooked rice. Apparently the implement was invented by a local Monk, and as such, you can find replicas in just about every souvenir store across the island.  And for those who can’t get enough shakushi, there is even a giant 5 metre version!

The meal was simple, but in that, it was purely magnificent.  To the left, a clear smoky osuimono broth looking rockpool-like with pippies and floating coriander stalks, tasting of the fresh sea.  A small dish of homemade tsukemono (pickles) were to add a nice contrast to what was to come. Then there was the bowl with the wooden drop lid.

Underneath was the most perfectly cooked Japanese pearl rice layered with thin slices of sweet sea eel, grilled to caramelly and smokey goodness.   There was silence and smiles at the table as Dan and I consumed our bowls. This was one we didn’t want to end.

Written by mellie on January 6th, 2009 | Tags: Fujitaya, Itsukushima, Japan, Miyajima | Category: Japan, dining experiences |  Print This Post |  Email This Post | Leave a comment

1162-3 Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi-shi, Hiroshima, Japan
Phone 81-829-44-0700

Traditional Japanese breakfasts are just the best, and both Dan and I eagerly anticipated our meals at the beginning of each day during our trip in Japan. Normally I have somewhat of a sweet tooth, and would probably choose toast and jam or cereal over bacon and eggs.  But Japanese breakfasts just hit the spot with me, perhaps because of both the freshness and variety.

To start with (or to end with to be more precise), steamed rice and a small bowl of pickles.  The main salad in the centre consisted of shredded carrot and daikon, lettuce, cucumber and tomato petals.

A generous still warm slice of freshly made tamago (Japanese omelette) sat next to grilled shishamo, small saltwater fish filled with their own eggs.  Their name comes from the fact that the fish look like willow leaves.  Mmm.

Lastly, a beautiful earthernware pot filled with simmering blocks of silken tofu.  A small little seive/strainer helps to lift the very delicate blocks out of the water, and you can dip the tofu into a bowl of light shoju (soy sauce) seasoned to taste with grated ginger, sliced spring onion and katsuobushi (shaved bonito).  I took the rather uncouth option of throwing the whole lot into the shoju. Tasty!

Written by mellie on January 6th, 2009 | Tags: Japan, ryokan, yamachi bekkan | Category: Japan, dining experiences |  Print This Post |  Email This Post | Leave a comment

1162-3 Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi-shi, Hiroshima, Japan
Phone 81-829-44-0700

Yamaichi Bekkan is a delightful ryokan just a stones throw from the ferry terminal on Itsukushima Island.  As you can see from the photos, the food was absolutely exquisite!  First up, some textbook perfect slices of sashimi with freshly grated wasabi.

Home made tofu cheese with uni (sea urchin) and fresh wasabi, sitting in a pool of lightly seasoned dashi.

Sliced pickled daikon and baby eggplant, garlic chives, a fish paste maple leaf and some type of clam.  I just love the reverence paid to seasonality (seasonal produce and seasonal decoration).

The tail of a local crustacean was propped up against some fresh salmon sashimi rolled in a thin egg omelette.  A ginger flower spike and sliced cucumber acted to refresh the palate afterwards.

I love the way this tempura literally popped out from the plate in contrast with the cobalt blue.  A mound of grated daikon and ginger sat to the side.

Hmm….I wonder what is inside this little envelope?  In front is a candied chestnut (an Autumn favourite in Japan), and a sweetly spiced clump of walnuts.

Inside the parcel was a delectable piece of fish marinated in saikyo miso, which is a sweet white version of the pungent bean paste.

One of the specialties of the region is anago (sea eel), and in this case it was used in oshizushi (pressed sushi on rice), which is actually one of the oldest forms of sushi.  I personally find oshizushi fairly heavy going, and must admit I pleaded defeat in finishing my plate.

Thankfully things got lighter from here on in, and we ended with a very pleasant bowl of osuimono, a clear seaweed/dashi broth.

Written by mellie on January 5th, 2009 | Tags: Japan, ryokan, yamachi bekkan | Category: Japan, dining experiences |  Print This Post |  Email This Post | Comments (2)

To be perfectly honest I’d never eaten a fish paste product until I’d met Dan; it just hadn’t registered on my gastronomic radar.  Since then I have become a devout fan, and I can’t get enough of the stuff!  I love fish paste in the form of bouncy rubbery balls floating in a noodle soup, packed firmly into yong tau foo, or squeezed onto sticks, just like we found in Itsukushima.

The variety at this store was quite impressive! They were wrapped and stuffed with various ingredients such as cheese, bacon, asparagus, corn, nori, octopus, shrimp, burdock and lotus root, to name just a few.  They are probably not very healthy being of the deep fried genre, but they taste great!

Written by mellie on January 4th, 2009 | Tags: Japan | Category: Japan, dining experiences |  Print This Post |  Email This Post | Comments (4)

I yearn for these rice crackers found on the island of Itsukushima.  Sakata doesn’t even come close to the thick, spicy, smoky flavours of these beauties once they come off the hot grill.  To eat them still warm is absolutely crunchy bliss.

They come in a variety of flavours too - although as you can see, I’m not really sure what flavours we ate (I think it was some sort of sancho pepper).  But they come plain, wrapped in nori, or peppered heavily with spices.

For a daintier version, this store sold take home packs of smaller biscuits.  How great is the packaging?

Written by mellie on January 3rd, 2009 | Tags: Japan | Category: Japan, food items |  Print This Post |  Email This Post | Leave a comment

Itsukushima is well known throughout Japan for its old growth forest and maple trees, which was probably inspiration for the islands most famous treat, the Momiji Manju.  The outside is similar to a cake, made from flour, rice powder and buckwheat. Inside, one traditionally finds an (sweetened red bean paste), although these days, custard, taro, macha and chocolate are also popular.

Visitors to the island, especially the Japanese, purchases boxes of the sweets to take home to their families.  We just bought two…for research purposes of course…and am pleased to report they are quite delicious!

I’m not sure how they were made back in the old days, but now the process is wholly automated.  Nevertheless it was lovely to watch the rickety old machinery at work.

Written by mellie on January 1st, 2009 | Tags: Japan | Category: Japan, food items |  Print This Post |  Email This Post | Leave a comment

Excuse me while I break with normal programming to take you back to some of the highlights (foodie and otherwise) of our trip to Japan in October 2007.

From Hiroshima, a short JR ferry ride will see you at Itsukushima Island, more popularly known as Miyajima.  The island is home to the Itsukushima Shrine (above), which is considered both a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of Japan’s official National Treasure.  I personally think it is more well known for gracing the front cover of just about every tourist brochure ever created for Japan.

The torii (Shinto shrine gate) dates back to the 12th century, although this version was rebuilt in 1875.  At 16 metres high it is made of camphor wood, and at high tide appears to float in the water.  At low tide, you can actually walk right up to the gate across the mud flats, and visitors place coins in the cracks of the wood to make a wish.

We stayed overnight on the island and were fortunate to experience the gate in all its sunset and nightlit glory.

But I get ahead of myself.  Earlier in the day we took the cable car and then hiked up the holy Mt.Misen (535 metres).  This thirty minute stairclimb was literally breathtaking, and afforded some spectacular views along the way.  Dotted along the trail were a number of small shrines - good spots to stop and rest.  The mountain is inhabited by a local wild monkey, although they were feeding in the forest by the time we arrived.  They can be a little demanding though, so be sure to follow the posted instructions.

The island is alsom home to some other unusual residents.  Deer are considered sacred in Shinto, the native religion of Japan, as they are considered messengers of the Gods. As such, they are afforded roaming and protection rights and walk freely around the island.

Generally they are docile creatures, although they can be mischevious little buggers and will eat anything you might be holding in your hand (food, passports, maps etc). They can also get quite territorial, such as the two young bucks locking heads above.

After that little squirmish, the deer took flight and jumped into the water and ran away.

Behind the torii gate is the Shrine itself, which is also built in the water.  We were lucky enough to witness a Shinto rite in action. This procession of black and white clad men made for an interesting contrast against the vermillion.

I wasn’t able to garner much information about the rite, but I gather it was to offer food and drink to the temple and/or Gods?  This is some of the practitioners offering up trays of food and drink.

Sake is also offered up to Gods, and barrels upon barrels of the stuff can be found stacked in the floating corridors.

Coming up next…the food we ate on the Island.

Written by mellie on December 31st, 2008 | Tags: Itsukushima, Japan, Miyajima | Category: Japan |  Print This Post |  Email This Post | Comments (4)

106 Little Lonsdale Street, Melbourne
Phone 03 9663 0221

I am quite partial to a bevy at Troika, especially after a hard day at work.  They do a pretty good bread/dips plate too.

Written by mellie on December 30th, 2008 | Tags: bars, Troika | Category: bars |  Print This Post |  Email This Post | Comments (3)

What the?

Written by mellie on December 23rd, 2008 | Category: dining experiences |  Print This Post |  Email This Post | Comments (6)