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Sydney: Emperor’s Puff

Emperor’s Garden Cakes & Bakery
Dixon Street (near corner of Hay Street), Haymarket, Sydney
Phone: 02 9211 2135

20070325EmperorsGardenCakes

A recent trip to Sydney led to all manner of culinary delights for EG and I (…this is the first post of many to come). One place we were smitten with was a hole-in-the-wall outfit that produced a naffy little product called Emperor’s Puffs. The long line of people snaking fifteen deep down Dixon Street in Chinatown first tipped us off to this delicacy.

20070325BagofEmperorPuffs

And this is what everyone was waiting for. $1.00 gets you five puffs. Pretty cheap, eh? The contraption that makes these puffs was quite a feat of engineering ingenuity. It clanked and it shook as it spurted batter into the cast iron moulds, which then passed through a heating element on a conveyor system. One poor lass was responsible for removing the balls from the machine and pumping them full of sweet custard.

20070325OneEmperorsPuff

This is a close up of the puff – a walnut sized doughball that is heat marked and crunchy like a waffle.

20070325OneEmperorsPuffEaten

And this is what you find when you don’t heed the “warning – freshly baked and served hot” sign next to the hole-in-the-wall window. Scorching hot custard. Mmm…

You can read more appreciation of this yummy product here.

30 comments to Sydney: Emperor’s Puff

  • Squishy

    Like a mini custard donut. Cool!

  • mellie

    Uh huh….deliciously so. I think we need one of these puff making contraptions here in Melbourne!

  • Simon

    I’m going to Sydney mid month. I am definitely going here!

  • Anonymous

    Hi Mel,
    I don’t know what the fuss is all about this puff. The custard taste overly eggy I am afraid.
    Maxim’s egg tart has a much better balanced custard.

    On the other hand, I’d love to see Melbourne’s answers to hotpot steamboat and great Karaoke like in Sydney.

  • ElegantGourmand

    Hi anon,

    There are some great Japanese-style karaoke in Melbourne, for example, Jankara, and Shoya also has private rooms (much better than open mike karaoke). There are also good Korean ones, like M Track on LaTrobe st.

    I am wary of steamboat in a restaurant. Much prefer steamboat at home. Meticulous prep work of the raw ingredients is required and cleanliness is paramount, esp. of things like seafood and offal. I doubt many restaurant steamboat places would go to such such lengths. However, if you must, Dragon Boat BBQ (Melb mayor John So’s place) on Lonsdale St has all you can eat steamboat. West Lake also offers steamboat and there are a crop of Taiwanese places that do hotpots – a few on Russell St.

  • mellie

    Hey there Simon – you’ll have lots of fun in Chinatown in Sydney (…it is WAY bigger than Melbournes). My tip is to hunt out all the food courts, which are usually upstairs or in basements. You’ll find oodles of noodles there ;-) Watch for some more posts on this shortly.

    Hi anon – uh huh, the custard is eggy, because yeah, I think it is egg custard ;-) But I just thought they were lovely little snacks – something I haven’t seen before. Egg tarts are a dime a dozen, although I do concede not all are as good as maxims (…or my own home baked ones!)

  • johanna

    yum…there is a place sort of like this in the food court (shudder)ay QVB…it is called ‘puffy’ and serves up thses yummy, sugary little shell with custard filling…cold, though. still, sugary, crunchy, slippery deliciousness. SO good!

  • mellie

    Hey there johanna – aaah yes…I tried ‘puffy’ at QV when it first opened. They are certainly delicious – but I must admit to feeling somewhat sullied by them in theory. Seemed bizarre that these “all natural” biscuit bombs maintained their outer integrity, despite the custardy insides, for hours and hours on end. How/why is it so? ;-)

  • sean

    These are Yummy. If you watch the machine, you will see that there is no pumping them full of sweet custard the whole thing is custard. The outside goes crispy and holds its shape and the inside stays soft with custardy goodness

  • mellie

    N’ah sean – Really??! No way. They were pancakey. The custard was not batter-ish at all.

  • esther

    oh emperor puffs! i miss them so much. definitely one of my sydney must do’s – along with homemade noodles northern chinese style.

    i think sean is right – the batter somehow tastes like custard in the middle when cooked. magic! also it explains why they’re so hot in the middle. they could just pump luke warm custard in if they wanted but that woman in the box just pulls them out and puts them on a tray, then in a bad. magic!

  • mellie

    Hmm…can it truly be so? Can it just be cooked egg custard?!? Sydney readers – can anyone swing over there and confirm this?!? We must get this solved!

    Esther – there is a place on Russell Street near Noodle Kingdown that does a similar emperors puff thingo, but it is like a dimpled sheet – sort of like a custardy bubble wrap. I haven’t tried it yet as I was just too full to give it a crack today. But I’ll go back and give it a blog when I do :-)

  • Ally

    I remember these “puffs” used to be advertised with a glowing neon sign called – The Emperor’s Golden Balls. Used to make all my friends giggle walking past it on the way back to Central after a night out in Chinatown for dinner, dessert and karaoke!

  • mellie

    Hey ally – too funny. I don’t know why they would have changed it! ;-)

  • Anonymous

    Hi Mellie, I too am a devotee of the Emperor Puff. I can confirm that it is some sort of custard batter – no custard injected. My assumption is that it works like those self saucing puddings where somehow the batter gets drawn to the top leaving the sauce or in this case custard behind.

  • mellie

    Hey anon – ooh, I just lament that I can’t have these treats regularly! Being in Melbourne, they just seem too far away ;-(.

    But you make a good point!

  • I just experienced these for the first time last night. Thanks for putting the pictures up, I can show my friends exactly what they look like now. These are awesome.. and very cheap!

  • Sydney’s Chinatown Experience…

    Hey all! It’s been aaages since I last wrote a blog entry. Life has been strangely busy yet non-eventful lately. I’ve spent more time writing on other people’s blogs than my own!! Anyway… it’s getting close to midnight and…

  • mingjing, singapore

    yes!!! i ate it in sydney in 2004! i missed it totally!!! anyone has the recipe? i cant be flying to sydney to eat it…. i cant believe its like on the whole world oni syd has it….

  • mingjing, singapore

    mellie, possible to get the boss contact? i am keen to bring into singapore

  • Hi mingjing – yes, they are certainly a tasty treat! I don’t know who runs the business, but the phone number is on the top of the post. For international dialling, the number is your international dialling code +612 9211 2135

  • [...] received had been to go to Chinatown and track down this little hole-in-the wall place that served Emperor’s Puffs. The actual little window where you got the Emperor’s Puffs is in the lower right-hand corner [...]

  • EGM

    Hi Ming Jing, Have you made contact with the boss

  • blair

    As a 19th birthday gift,
    my friends took me shopping in Sydney.
    Mainly all the high fashion brands.
    But we decided to have dinner in China town.
    And on the way out what caught my eye was this long.fastmoving line.
    We made our way over triping (after a few drinks)
    and found this tiny donut balls filled with custardycream.
    we decided to get 20 each as we where extremly hungry still.
    and they where all gone within minutes.
    Best $4 I ever spent.

  • John N

    Well after all this talk, I too have enjoyed this treat, but has anyone got the recipe?

  • Hey John N – unfortunately, no. But I think the secret is in their wizzbang cast iron cooking machine.

  • Jim

    Absolutely fantastic every time we go to Sydney we have these little balls of JOY

  • Danni

    Hi everyone ,

    I went to Sydney about a week ago and i went here to the Emperors Puff . It is a small room and hardly noticeable. I tried them and they were really nice and soft . Freshly cooked from the machine. i saw her make it in the machine and i was really interested in the machine . does anyone know what its called ? :L

    Many thanks

  • willie

    does anyone know what the machine is called?

  • These existed in Cabramatta first. John St.

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