Journal Canteen

We had an exquisite lunch yesterday at the newish Journal Canteen at the Centre for Adult Education (CAE). A member of the Con Christopoulos empire, which also includes the Melbourne Supper Club, European, City Wine Shop, Journal Cafe and Pelican, the Canteen is a more than worthy addition. Doubling as a catering school on weekend’s, the Canteen’s concrete bunker space is softened by smart use of colour – chalk coloured walls broken up by a green tongue and groove dado, black steel frames, gold mesh panels, honeywood laminate and lovely vases with a single pink tulip stem in each. Retro touches abounded, like a 50′s looking floor fan, and a silver cake stand displaying the daily dessert.

Furniture is decidely old school, literally. Communal tables and steel legged chairs takes you back to school days, the retro aesthetic stemming from Christopoulos’ love of using recycled furniture in all his places. A long bench along the entire north side of the space provides views of buzzy Flinders Lane, appreciated by patrons perched on steel-legged Happy Days style stools. The open kitchen tempts diners with fabulous smells, the sizzling of the grill and the glorious antipasti lined up at the pass.

The food experience simulates being invited to lunch at manager Rosa’s house – homely food with a Sicillian bent. The menu is small and changes daily, but will always include an antipasto, soup, choice of two or three mains, one or two desserts, wines by the glass and beers; all have an Italian accent.

I had the squid ink spaghetti and Mellie chose the veal involtini with beans (both $18). We could also have chosen from pasta brodo (pasta in soup) or a bistecca (thinly sliced steak) and mash. The spaghetti was simply delicious; one of the best I’ve had this year. The squid ink imparted a beautiful sea flavour to the dish without being overly fishy or salty. The pasta was of excellent quality, and was deliciously studded with smoky pieces of squid. The involtini was magnificent, too; real melt-in-your-mouth stuff, with a very piquant and tasty sugo, and wonderfully garlicky beans. A complimentary lettuce and fennel salad was well-dressed and refreshing.

We couldn’t go past the cannoli for dessert ($3.50), which was freshly filled on demand by the chef. A beautiful crunchy pastry lead to a tasty ricotta honey-scented filling that was simply divine. It went well with the strong complimentary stovetop espresso – no pithy caffe lattes here

Service was proficient and friendly, especially the vivacious Rosa, though orders were slow to come out of the kitchen once the place filled up. My advice would be to get there early.

All up, a more than satisfying lunch venue (it’s not open for dinner or on weekends), with delicious food, quirky but cool decor, and a wonderful vibe. Another winner for Mr “Midas Touch” Christopoulos!