tummy rumbles is taking a bit of a break - in Japan and Singapore!

We may try to post a few from the road, but to be honest there may not be too much time for that. But keep your eyes peeled for our return in Early November - there will be a plethora of gastronomic experiences to share.

Till then, take care! And if my archives don’t keep you amused, then swing by some of the other Melbourne food blogs listed in the sidebar to the right.

Sayonara!

I’ll try to refrain from any double entendres, but puns aside, this fascinating little Korean ice cream snack from Lotte is actually called the Cornie.

I absolutely cooed in delight when I unwrapped the packaging - this little cob just appealed to my kooky sense of whimsy. The wafer style exterior was shaped as an ear of corn, and there was no stick to speak of, just a stalk to grab on to and bite.

Inside, a deliciously vanilla ice cream confection covered in chocolate and studded with glutinous kernals of corn. Seriously - whole kernals. And it wasn’t at all unpleasant - the taste of the sweet corn went ever so nicely with the vanilla and chocolate. It was altogether a very pleasing snack.

Oyako-don literally translates as parent (oya), child (ko) and bowl (don), which is probably because this traditional Japanese dish amusingly contains both the chicken and the egg (…and no what came first jokes!). It is the perfect weekday dish, as you can generally knock it up in the time it takes to cook the rice. It is also wonderfully tasty.

You will probably have most of the ingredients in your cupboard or available from your supermarket, but the one above may be a little harder to source. Instant dashi or bonito (skipjack tuna) flavoured soup stock can be found in some asian grocers, and comes in a powdered form. Make sure you get the one in the green pack which is MSG free. It has a mildly fishy taste and is commonwly used when making miso. If you’re feeling adventurous, you may want to try making dashi from scratch (it isn’t hard, but you will need some special ingredients).

Oyako-don (Chicken and Egg with Rice)
Serves 4

2 chicken breasts, chopped into bite sized pieces
1 large brown onion, thinly sliced
200ml cup dashi (instant or home made)
4 teaspoons sugar
4 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce
2 tablespoons mirin
4 eggs, cracked and beaten
Shredded nori seaweed for garnish
8 cups of cooked hot rice

Place the sliced onion, stock, sugar, soy sauce and mirin into a sauce pan and bring to the boil. Turn down the heat to a simmer and add the diced chicken and cook for five minutes (or until the chicken is cooked). Skim any foam off the sauce.

Ladel a quarter of the mixture into a small frying pan and bring to the boil. Pour a quarter of the egg mixture into the pan and cover and cook to your liking.

Slide the cooked mixture onto the rice and sprinkle with the nori seaweed. Prepare the remaining three portions.

Note: Some may also add sliced green onion or peas to the recipe. If so, add these when you transfer the mixture to the fry pan.

“Cibo con amore” or “food with love” is the mantra at Espressino, a sophisticated and funky pizzetta, piadina and wine bar that caters to dainty public servants and office workers near the corner of Lonsdale and Spring. Located in Madame Brussels lane, it is the shining light amongst a glut of $5-coffee-and-muffin-joints which are unfortunately the standard in the area.

Opening only a few months ago, this family run affair is both passionate and authentic. Hailing from Torrevecchia in Italy, there isn’t a twee stereotype in sight - no checked tablecloths or bottles of chianti hanging from the ceiling, or stodgy cheese laden Italian fare. But what makes it special is that both the food and the service is done with love. And though I hate to fawn, I am absolutely smitten by it.

The protagonists at this culinary helm are Remo (as in the saint), a decidedly hunky Italian specimen with a look and an accent that can drop a girl at 20 paces (gee…lucky I am SO enamoured by EG!). He has a firm hospitality pedigree - operating cafes both here and in Italy, where he lived for 15 years. Deano, his godfather (…not to be confused with THE godfather), is a cheeky chap and one who is not adverse to a gossip and a bit of shtick. He started his trade in Queensland running a pizza joint with Remo’s father, and has since run cafe’s in Melbourne, taking a side step into ladies hairdressing (hence his excellent communication skills). Enis, Deano’s wife, is the most gorgeous, welcoming lady, with the heart, passion and cooking skills of a good Italian mama (…although she is far from looking like one!). There are others - sisters helping out in the kitchen and front of house, and a Sicilian uncle who is the pastrychef, a man who takes sole responsibility for my daily afternoon jaunt to the cake display.

But lets get onto the food. Mmm…rigatoni con ragu. Doesn’t this photo make you want to just dive in and eat - fork in one hand and hunk of bread in the other? Only recently has pasta made an appearance on the menu (thank god…those boxes of De Cecco pasta sitting on the counter have been taunting me for weeks!), and is served on Thursday and Friday. Enis takes responsibility for this bowl of goodness - firm aldente rigatoni, a tomato and beef ragu that has been cooked as all good sauces should be cooked - low and slooooow. And I don’t even know where to begin with the meat - it was tender and just fell to bits under my fork. Oh yeah. My Nonna would be happy with this.

I just so love the details - for example, your pasta comes served with a plate of crusty white bread which is perfect for wiping clean your plate afterwards. There is a grater for your parmesan, and a little dish of fresh chopped deseeded chilli that has been mixed with cracked black pepper. It is these little extras that I find so delightful. The little demi carafe of vino didn’t go astray either, making my Friday afternoon in the office a rather chirpy and relaxed affair.

For lunch one may also go the way of the pizza, which is made onsite daily, base and all. As you can see here, we are not talking your cheap meat lovers or Papa Gino’s special. This is gooood - toppings are fresh and simple - broccolini with prosciutto and tallegio, roasted vegetable, or even a simple margarita. A couple of choices a day keep things interesting.

If you want to go simple, then the foccaccia caprese can’t be beat (…I must confess to having this one quite regularly). Fior de latte mozzarella, tomato and basil. That’s it. The holy trinity of colours, red, white and green, toasted together in an olive oil and oregano foccaccia bread.

Other lunchtime offerings include sour dough piadina, toasted and served hot on a wood bread board (ahh…details). Filling ingredients include salame (sic), rocket, tuna, egg, asparagus, provolone, asiago, prosciutto, parma, roasted peppers etc.

Breakfast too is excellent. Dench breads - fruit and sourdough, are a good way to wake up in the morning, as are the breakfast panino’s with spinach, googy fried egg and provolone, or pancetta and googy egg. There is Misura Italian Cornflakes, Byron Bay Muesli, breakfast piadina with nutella and coconut (oh yeah). They also have a few specials, for instance the zabaglione with pavesini biscuits pictured above - a delicious silky marsala infused egg cream that is way too wicked to eat for breakfast. This evoked some very fond childhood memories, standing on a chair whisking egg yolks (I was about four or five years old) with my Nonna, pleading with her to put in another “cucchiaio di zucchero” (spoon of sugar). Ahh….I just love when food does this.

Oh…this is the “oops…was so hungry to take a photo before I ate it” warm breakfast panino with spinach, egg and cheese.

As I said earlier, the cake display is what calls to me each afternoon. It changes on a daily basis, keeping my pastry-inclined ways interested and enthused. The star of the show is the bombolone - yeasty Italian doughnuts pumped full of custard, raspberry or apricot jam. On certain days you can also get a very naughty nutella and custard combination. Other items include “probably the best lemon and blood orange tartlets”, white chocolate tarts, an amazing gluten free chocolate cake, plum and almond friands - well, the list goes on. All of the cakes are nicely sized (ie not supersized), so you don’t feel so bad eating them. Well, that is what I like to tell myself anyway.

The biscuits too are just amazing. Above is the napolitani - a pure work of pastrymaking art - a chocolatey nutty interior wrapped by sweet pastry, sprinkled with pistachios and drizzled with jam. Ooh…I just feel faint thinking about them. There are also garibaldi, mandarin amaretti, sour cherry amaretti, shortbread stuffed with figs…yes yes yes!

You know, I just love a place that greets me by name when I walk in, that is interested when they ask “And how are you today?”, and gives me such wonderful food to swoon over. And the romcaffe coffee, sourced directly from Italy, can’t be beat either.

The Kit Kat bar is considered quite the popular snack in Japan (something I am VERY keen to investigate in, oh…19 days!). Originally created by Rowntree back in 1935, it has grown chunkier, bigger and a heck of a lot more interesting with a STAGGERING array of flavour and regional variations. And trends such as these create your fair share of addicts, which just makes me want to try the various types all the more.

My recent jaunt to Tsukiji (the one in Prahran and not in Japan), had me doing a happy dance when I saw these Japanese Kit Kats for sale ($2.50). Above, the Kit Kat Bitter 61% Cacao was as you would imagine - dark bittersweet chocolate covering the usual three layer cream filled wafer, making for a very adult indulgence.

My interested was piqued more so by the matcha (green tea). When you open the box you will find two individually sealed packs, with a double finger in each.

Bordering on white chocolate, there is the unmistakable yet extremely pleasant flavour of green tea, and it balances the bitterness and sweetness well. The chocolate coating was also rather attractive being variegated in two shades of green. Sugoi!

What comes in banana-leaf packaging and smells like day old catfood when you heat it up?

Otak Otak by any other name would smell as sweet…ahhh, I don’t think so. The stench that permeated the house was far from sweet, but I must confess the taste was awesome.

This snack is found in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia (…and now in Box Hill), and comprises pounded fish paste mixed with chillies, coconut and spices, rolled into a banana-leaf and grilled on the flame/charcoal. When the leaf chars, the fish is read to eat.

It can be consumed as a snack or with a bowl of rice. Some might add a sambal, but it packs a fair amount of heat and taste on its own.

“Otak” in Malay translates as brain - perhaps because it is soft and squidgy on the inside. Not a pleasant mental picture I must admit, but who cares, it tastes good.

Matt Preston’s review of Dainty Sichuan in Epicure yesterday prompted me to post my views on this popular little eatery, which EG first experienced back in August. Since then we’ve been back a number of times, dragging parents, friends and just ourselves along for some chilli madness. To be perfectly honest the food is oily, salty and MSG-laden. But those damn chillies/sichuan peppercorns are bloody addictive, and their siren song keep you coming back for more.

The Mapo Tofu (above) is a lava-like braise of minced pork and diced tofu, spruiked up by a healthy spoon (or two) of spicy bean paste and sichuan pepper. You will not only feel the heat from the chilli, but also the mouth numbing quality of the peppercorns. The name of the dish literally translates as “pocked-face lady’s tofu”, so named for a pock-faced lady who, living on the outskirts of town due to her leprous appearance, enticed a farmer and his son with a dish made from the few items in her cupboard - mince beef, tofu and sichaun peppercorns. Apparently this tasty dish soon became known far and wide, and was named after her rather unfortunate condition. Or so the story goes anyway.

To cool things down, you may opt for a gentle plate of stir-fried Chinese broccoli with oyster sauce. A nice way to break up the chilli onslaught.

The delightfully named Ants Climbing A Tree is a typical Sichuan dish which surprisingly isn’t too hot. Minced pork clings to threads of mung bean noodles ( looking like ants clinging to a twig, hence the name), stir fried with ginger, garlic, green onions and a modest amount of chilli. I really like this one. Tasty.

I can’t remember the name of this dish (probably because my eyes instantly started watering from the three chilli rating), but these spicy pork ribs will have you reaching for the fire extinguisher. Alternatively a cold bottle of sweetened soy bean drink or milky green tea may douse the raging inferno. Spicy and salty to the extreme, four people probably wouldn’t make a huge dent in this plate of meat. Heed my warning though - don’t order it if you’re not prepared, as it kicks like a mule.

The beer duck was wonderfully tasty, and unfortunately by this stage I was too full to have more than a piece. The duck just about fell off the bone, having been braised for a very long time in an ale flavoured chilli infused gravy. What surprised me most was the use of sprouted bean shoots, which were wonderfully crunchy and nutty - something I hadn’t seen before. And as you can see, yes, there was a fair amount of oil/fat floating on the surface.

Green beans with pork mince were also good in a deep fried, oily, excessively salty kind of way. It’s a popular dish in the restaurant - you’ll notice it gracing most tables. And I’d be quite happy to eat just that with a bowl of steamed rice and a bottle of Tsingtao.

Listen, the Dainty Sichuan doesn’t pretend to be anything it isn’t, which is why I like it. It’s chaotic, it’s rough around the edges and the food bites you back (not only when you eat it, but 12 hours later ;-)). It is certainly an experience.

A very inviting bunch of broccoli di rape (or rapini as some may know it) was the inspiration for this dish. Broccoli di rape was a regular staple grown in our veggie patch by Nonno and cooked by Nonna (my Italian grandparents). It is a type of bitter broccoli that is boiled and sauteed with olive oil and garlic (sometimes with mashed potato), and eaten with a good hunk of bread and cheese. I remember the vegetable being very dark and very bitter (and something I used to turn my nose up as a child), and was a little surprised when I found the version above in an Asian vegetable store in Sydney Road, Brunswick. I later found out that the vegetable does come in two varieties - the darker, bitter Italian variety, and a Chinese version, which is not only lighter in colour, but light on the bitterness. The entire plant is edible - stalk, leaves and even the pretty little yellow flowers.

The other item that inspired me was some cencioni, or VERY large orecchietti pasta, that I purchased from the Mediterranean Supermarket in Brunswick (well…EG and I were walking to A1 Bakery for some cheese and spinach pies, and got distracted a few times along the way!). Cencioni are about four times the size of regular orecchietti, and are flatter and somewhat rose petal like with an upturned end. They take approximately 20-25 minutes to cook.

Lastly was a beautiful swordfish steak care of the Victoria Market. The steak was easily an inch thick, and had been butterflied for easy cooking.

And what does this all make? Well excuse the bit-o-this and bit-o-that-ness to the recipe, as this is something I cooked up on the fly. But it is inspired by a traditional Puglian dish, orecchiette with broccoli.

Cencioni with Swordfish and Broccoli di Rape
Serves 2

250g Cencioni
1 bunch of Broccoli di Rape
1 swordfish steak (enough for two portions)
4-6 anchovies
2 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 tsp crushed dried chilli flakes
Olive oil, at least a couple of tablespoons (and perhaps a glug or two more)
Sea salt flakes and cracked black pepper
Finely grated rind of 1 lemon
Juice of 1 lemon
Handful of grated Parmigiano

Method:

• Put a large pot of salted water on to boil.
• Prepare the broccoli by cutting into 5cm long lengths. You want to separate the bits into three piles - stalk, stems and leaves. The reason for this? Well, they will cook at varying times, and you really don’t want to overcook the broccoli (it goes mushy).
• Heat up a large saute/fry pan and cook the seasoned swordfish steak (salt and pepper) in a little olive oil. Don’t overcook - err on the side of being underdone than overdone (it will cook further later). Remove from the pan and place to the side.
• When the water is boiling, throw in the cencioni. Remember, these will take about 20-25 minutes to cook. At about the 10 minute mark throw the broccoli stalks into the pasta water - these will take the longest to cook. At the 15 minute mark, throw in the stems.
• Whilst the pasta and broccoli is cooking, place the saute/fry pan back onto a very low heat and give it a generous glug of olive oil. Throw in the chopped garlic, anchovies and crushed dried chilli flakes. You want to break up the anchovies and smoosh them around in the olive oil, which will impart a meaty/salty flavour to the dish (and surprisingly, not a fishy one). Keep an eye on the garlic and don’t let it burn. It will just turn bitter.
• Cut the swordfish into chunks and finely grate the lemon rind directly onto the fish (use a microplane if you have one). The heat from the fish should help to release some of the oils in the lemon rind.
• Check the cencioni for doneness - they should be al dente without seeing flour in the bite. Drain the cencioni, reserving half a cup of the cooking liquor.
• Place the broccoli leaves into the saute/fry pan and cook for a minute until wilted. Toss in the drained cencioni and broccoli, coating the pasta and leaves in the anchovy/oil/garlic/chilli, using an extra glug of olive oil, lemon juice and pasta cooking water if the dish is looking a bit dry. You may also need to add some extra seasoning at this stage, although the anchovies should provide the necessary salt. Taste it and see.
• When the pasta looks nicely coated, toss through the swordfish and a little parmigiano. You don’t want to mix it too much after this, else the swordfish will break up. You want nice big chunks. Serve, with an extra sprinkle of parmigiano.
• Enjoy with a chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc, and the one you love.

Some may have noticed a certain affection for Japanese cuisine in our blog of late, but that is only because in 28 days, EG and I jet off for four weeks in Japan - not that I’m counting So it was no surprise when trundling down High Street, Prahran on the tram that I spotted a place that blipped on my Japan-radar.

Tsukiji is a small shop named after the Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, Japan, which is the biggest wholesale fish market in the world. The market is renowned for moving approximately 2000 metric tonnes of fish and seafood per day, and whilst Tsukiji (Prahran) is not so prolific, it does provide a pleasing range of piscatorial products.

Tsukiji (Prahran) straddles a few different business fronts - it is part sashimi fishmonger, Japanese grocer and lunch spot. A custom made pine sushi-style counter seats ten in single file - a utilitarian spot to stop and eat and admire the black and white photos of the Tsukiji Market in Japan. The menu is small - you have a choice of a few handrolls of the day, curry don, miso, sashimi set, una don (eel on rice - which looked VERY good) or takoyaki (octopus balls). There are also a few sweets - Japanese ice-creams and taiyaki (red ben cakes).

We couldn’t resist the $10 sashimi set or the opportunity to order in Japanese (we have been taking classes) - “Sashimi seto futatsu kudasai”. They obviously understood as a few minutes later two trays arrived (above). The set included a rich miso broth that was studded with shards of spring onion and tofu, a small dish of seaweed salad and a warm bowl of Japanese pearl-like rice. The best bit was the plate of super fresh sashimi - tiles of firm red tuna, salmon, king dory and blue-eye. What I found most interesting was the two different cuts of blue-eye, which showed just how not all parts of the fish are equal. One part was tender and soft, whilst the other was firm and to the tooth. A good skill of the chef no doubt. The dish was absolutely delightful - it was pureness and simplicity on a plate.

As mentioned above, Tsukiji also operates as it’s namesake, a market for fish and other seafood products. It is not like your regular monger though, as you won’t find much in the way of whole fish etc. But you will find trays of ready cut chunks of fish, prepared for sashimi/sushi. There are your popular items such as tuna and salmon, but a few unusual ones pop up, such as whole small whiting, octopus, arc shell, clams, scallops etc.

Along with the cafe and fishmongery is the grocery part of the store, selling large bags of rice, an impressive array of sauces, seaweeds, noodles, and Japanese junk food. There is even a couple of hunks of frozen wagyu in the freezer. Tsukiji is a nicely set out store that has certainly added to our excitement for our forthcoming trip.

Avast me hearties! Mel and I have been hooked by Prahran’s Hooked. As far as fish and chippers go, it doesn’t get any better than this. Located near the corner of High Street and Chapel, the first thing that draws your attention is the nautical decor of this neat little shopfront. Buoys, roped bollards, interesting wall stencils, and a shark-shaped fish aquarium provide a fun atmosphere without being over the top kitschy. Take-away is, of course, popular but you can also eat in at a long communal table with such weathered patina that it appears constructed from the hull of an old clipper. Interestingly, Hooked also allows BYO.

The menu includes a choice of flake, barramundi, snapper and salmon, filleted fresh on site and available beer battered or grilled in a range of special boxes and combinations. You can also get fish burgers, calamari (grilled or salt & pepper), scallops, octopus and king prawns, and there are daily blackboard specials. Chips are hand-cut, and tartare sauce, pesto and other sauces are hand-made. Healthy sides include a fabulous salad of mixed leaf, tomato, cucumber, bbq corn, ginger, bean sprouds and kumera crisps - good enough to order on its own, and will definitely rid you of scurvy. Arrrgh. You can also get tempura vegetables if you want to appear semi-healthy

Packaging is very smart indeed - see above. I had the flake, whilst Mel had the barramundi in a light tempura batter with hand cut chips, home made tartare and lemon, and salad ($12.50).

What can I say - the flake was delicious. A fantastic beer batter ensured that the fish was oh so moist inside. The chips were hand hewn fritters of flavour that went a treat with good ol’ Heinz ketchup. Mel’s barra was also fantastic. What surprised us the most was the Hooked salad - not just the best salad that I’ve had in a gourmet fish and chipper but one of the best salads I’ve had ever! Crunchy, healthy and delicious, the Japanese-style pickled ginger and the BBQ’d corn added surprising yet tasty touches to the salad. I love the fact that Hooked tried to balance out the unhealthy with healthy options.

I know I’ve been waxing lyrical about what is essentially deep fried takeout, but Hooked is seriously good and highly recommended. It’s not as cheap as your usual suburban fish and greasies but quality and flavour are high, and I love the thought that has gone into the place. You Prahran people are so lucky!