Dainty Sichuan…now it was my turn

Matt Preston’s review of Dainty Sichuan in Epicure yesterday prompted me to post my views on this popular little eatery, which EG first experienced back in August. Since then we’ve been back a number of times, dragging parents, friends and just ourselves along for some chilli madness. To be perfectly honest the food is oily, salty and MSG-laden. But those damn chillies/sichuan peppercorns are bloody addictive, and their siren song keep you coming back for more.

The Mapo Tofu (above) is a lava-like braise of minced pork and diced tofu, spruiked up by a healthy spoon (or two) of spicy bean paste and sichuan pepper. You will not only feel the heat from the chilli, but also the mouth numbing quality of the peppercorns. The name of the dish literally translates as “pocked-face lady’s tofu”, so named for a pock-faced lady who, living on the outskirts of town due to her leprous appearance, enticed a farmer and his son with a dish made from the few items in her cupboard – mince beef, tofu and sichaun peppercorns. Apparently this tasty dish soon became known far and wide, and was named after her rather unfortunate condition. Or so the story goes anyway.

To cool things down, you may opt for a gentle plate of stir-fried Chinese broccoli with oyster sauce. A nice way to break up the chilli onslaught.

The delightfully named Ants Climbing A Tree is a typical Sichuan dish which surprisingly isn’t too hot. Minced pork clings to threads of mung bean noodles ( looking like ants clinging to a twig, hence the name), stir fried with ginger, garlic, green onions and a modest amount of chilli. I really like this one. Tasty.

I can’t remember the name of this dish (probably because my eyes instantly started watering from the three chilli rating), but these spicy pork ribs will have you reaching for the fire extinguisher. Alternatively a cold bottle of sweetened soy bean drink or milky green tea may douse the raging inferno. Spicy and salty to the extreme, four people probably wouldn’t make a huge dent in this plate of meat. Heed my warning though – don’t order it if you’re not prepared, as it kicks like a mule.

The beer duck was wonderfully tasty, and unfortunately by this stage I was too full to have more than a piece. The duck just about fell off the bone, having been braised for a very long time in an ale flavoured chilli infused gravy. What surprised me most was the use of sprouted bean shoots, which were wonderfully crunchy and nutty – something I hadn’t seen before. And as you can see, yes, there was a fair amount of oil/fat floating on the surface.

Green beans with pork mince were also good in a deep fried, oily, excessively salty kind of way. It’s a popular dish in the restaurant – you’ll notice it gracing most tables. And I’d be quite happy to eat just that with a bowl of steamed rice and a bottle of Tsingtao.

Listen, the Dainty Sichuan doesn’t pretend to be anything it isn’t, which is why I like it. It’s chaotic, it’s rough around the edges and the food bites you back (not only when you eat it, but 12 hours later ). It is certainly an experience.