The simple things in life are often the best, such as the Kaisen Chirashi ($21.80) lunchtime set at Shoya. Fat tiles of tuna, swordfish, kingfish, salmon, arc shell (perhaps?!?), prawn, tobiko and a few other unknown piscatorial treats. All of it fresh. All of it tasting like the sea. Sitting on top perfect grains of bitey white rice and spikey slivers of toasted nori.

You can read about a previous visit to Shoya here.