125-2 Miyajima-cho, Itsukushima
In the residential backstreets of Itsukushima sits a quaint little restaurant that has been serving up anagomeishi, eel in a spicy sauce over rice, since the Meiji era. We almost walked right past the door, such was its innocuousness.
A quick digression – the large wooden shakushi (spatula) hanging above the window to the right is used to scoop cooked rice. Apparently the implement was invented by a local Monk, and as such, you can find replicas in just about every souvenir store across the island. And for those who can’t get enough shakushi, there is even a giant 5 metre version!
The meal was simple, but in that, it was purely magnificent. To the left, a clear smoky osuimono broth looking rockpool-like with pippies and floating coriander stalks, tasting of the fresh sea. A small dish of homemade tsukemono (pickles) were to add a nice contrast to what was to come. Then there was the bowl with the wooden drop lid.
Underneath was the most perfectly cooked Japanese pearl rice layered with thin slices of sweet sea eel, grilled to caramelly and smokey goodness. There was silence and smiles at the table as Dan and I consumed our bowls. This was one we didn’t want to end.
I can’t believe this, we were just in Miyajima between Chirstmas and New Years and while we didn’t eat at this particular place, it is the exact same meal that I had – mmmmm yummy goodness!
I have just been reading the rview of Tempura Hajime and can’t wait to book in. We tried to go to a restaurant just like it in Kyoto but alas it was full.
Best thing about Melbourne is that the Japanese food is very similar to that throughout Japan, so we don’t missout on too much…
Have just discovered your bog and love it – well done
Hi there Regan! Ahh…you were just in Miyajima?! Oooh…you’re making me travelsick!
A little bit of bad news. Tempura Hajime was closing in December/January – so you might have just missed out! Try giving them a call, but when we went in November, they had decided to move back to Japan to try the rural life on Shikoku (I think!). Anyway, it’s a shame because I just so love what they’re doing!
And thanks for your comment. The blog is a labour of love