Itsukushima (Miyajima) Ryokan – Yamaichi Bekkan (dinner)

1162-3 Miyajima-cho, Hatsukaichi-shi, Hiroshima, Japan
Phone 81-829-44-0700

Yamaichi Bekkan is a delightful ryokan just a stones throw from the ferry terminal on Itsukushima Island.  As you can see from the photos, the food was absolutely exquisite!  First up, some textbook perfect slices of sashimi with freshly grated wasabi.

Home made tofu cheese with uni (sea urchin) and fresh wasabi, sitting in a pool of lightly seasoned dashi.

Sliced pickled daikon and baby eggplant, garlic chives, a fish paste maple leaf and some type of clam.  I just love the reverence paid to seasonality (seasonal produce and seasonal decoration).

The tail of a local crustacean was propped up against some fresh salmon sashimi rolled in a thin egg omelette.  A ginger flower spike and sliced cucumber acted to refresh the palate afterwards.

I love the way this tempura literally popped out from the plate in contrast with the cobalt blue.  A mound of grated daikon and ginger sat to the side.

Hmm….I wonder what is inside this little envelope?  In front is a candied chestnut (an Autumn favourite in Japan), and a sweetly spiced clump of walnuts.

Inside the parcel was a delectable piece of fish marinated in saikyo miso, which is a sweet white version of the pungent bean paste.

One of the specialties of the region is anago (sea eel), and in this case it was used in oshizushi (pressed sushi on rice), which is actually one of the oldest forms of sushi.  I personally find oshizushi fairly heavy going, and must admit I pleaded defeat in finishing my plate.

Thankfully things got lighter from here on in, and we ended with a very pleasant bowl of osuimono, a clear seaweed/dashi broth.