Tsukiji Fish Market (Tokyo) - Frozen Tuna Auction

3am is not a such an easy hour to wake. Bleary eyed and not quite conscious, EG and I dragged our sorry asses onto the streets of Ikebukuro to find ourselves a taxi. I had booked a tour of the famous Tsukiji Fish Market on the internet prior to departure, and we were a little apprehensive. We had to meet our guide just before 4am on a dark corner in front of a convenience store in an unknown city with cash in hand. And all of this booked on the internet. But we needn't have worried - when we arrived our friendly guide Naoto was there to greet us.

The fish market first came into operation near Nihonbashi bridge way back in the Edo period (16th century), providing the Shogun and Edo Castle (now Tokyo) with all its piscatorial needs. It continued to function under various guises over the centuries, the most current incarnation commencing in 1935 after the old market was decimated by the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923. At the time the Tokyo Metropolitan Government decided to relocate the market from Nihonbashi to Tsukiji, and it now holds the reputation of being one of the biggest wholesale markets in the world.

The whole Tsukiji experience was one of my most memorable in Japan - the sights, sounds, smell, buzz and the sheer adrenalin rush of running around from auction to auction, dodging fast moving forklifts that don't stop or swerve for man (and especially tourist). So apologies in advance - this entry will cross multiple posts. There was just so much to see and take in. And I also took a ridiculous number of photos :-)

The frozen tuna hall is perhaps one of the more visually stunning areas of the market. On arrival by refrigerated transport, these huge tunacicles are dragged from the bowels of the truck and indelicately dropped onto a large truck tyre which cushions their fall. The buggers are damn big, weighing in anywhere from 100kg to 300kg, and as long as a man is tall.

Another worker swings into the fish with a large metal hook and drags it onto a scale where it is measured and dragged into the auction hall in rows according to weight.

A worker hoses the tail end with water to facilitate thawing, whilst another worker hacks away a fan shaped slice in the caudal area to expose the flesh so buyers can determine the quality. The graders/inspectors look at a number of attributes to determine value - colour, fat/oil content, freshness, texture and size/shape. Life history is also very important - whether it has been handled and killed correctly, butchering/spiking technique, old injuries/scars or whether the fish is sick/parasitic. The Japanese are very particular about the quality of their tuna, and basically if the fish is not in export condition, it won't be on sale at Tsukiji.

The tuna are numbered for auction with bright red paint. The sticker on the front end of the fish contains details such as catch date and origin.

The caudal area slices are more apparent in this shot, which assist the buyer to check quality. You may also notice that the tail has beeen removed from the fish. Apparently tendons in the tail control movement, and removing this will prevent the fish from thrashing about on deck and causing internal damage and loss of quality.

After the buyers have assessed the quality of the fish, it is time for sale. The auction occurs amongst the fish, moving from specimen to specimen as buyers compete and bid. The tuna prices in Japan are affected by the quality of the fish available and the number of fish present on the market on any given day. So even though quality and selection of fish is important, market conditions will also contribute its relative value.

Once the auction has concluded the fish are immediately removed for processing. Frozen tuna are handled less delicately than fresh tuna - the use of spikes to lift and drag the fish is an obvious sign that this is not 1+ grade fish.

The carcasses are then lugged to the middlemen stores where they are hacked into log sized chunks with axes, bandsaws and circular saws. Generally frozen tuna is used for lower end sushi joints or in preparation of semi-cooked dishes. It can also be used for canning or frozen purposes, such as steaks etc. High grade tuna (ie. grade 1+ sashimi) is only found in fresh tuna (see post on Fresh Tuna Auction to follow).

Otak Otak

What comes in banana-leaf packaging and smells like day old catfood when you heat it up?

Otak Otak by any other name would smell as sweet...ahhh, I don't think so. The stench that permeated the house was far from sweet, but I must confess the taste was awesome.

This snack is found in Malaysia, Singapore and Indonesia (...and now in Box Hill), and comprises pounded fish paste mixed with chillies, coconut and spices, rolled into a banana-leaf and grilled on the flame/charcoal. When the leaf chars, the fish is read to eat.

It can be consumed as a snack or with a bowl of rice. Some might add a sambal, but it packs a fair amount of heat and taste on its own.

"Otak" in Malay translates as brain - perhaps because it is soft and squidgy on the inside. Not a pleasant mental picture I must admit, but who cares, it tastes good.

Cencioni with Swordfish and Broccoli di Rape

A very inviting bunch of broccoli di rape (or rapini as some may know it) was the inspiration for this dish. Broccoli di rape was a regular staple grown in our veggie patch by Nonno and cooked by Nonna (my Italian grandparents). It is a type of bitter broccoli that is boiled and sauteed with olive oil and garlic (sometimes with mashed potato), and eaten with a good hunk of bread and cheese. I remember the vegetable being very dark and very bitter (and something I used to turn my nose up as a child), and was a little surprised when I found the version above in an Asian vegetable store in Sydney Road, Brunswick. I later found out that the vegetable does come in two varieties - the darker, bitter Italian variety, and a Chinese version, which is not only lighter in colour, but light on the bitterness. The entire plant is edible - stalk, leaves and even the pretty little yellow flowers.

The other item that inspired me was some cencioni, or VERY large orecchietti pasta, that I purchased from the Mediterranean Supermarket in Brunswick (well...EG and I were walking to A1 Bakery for some cheese and spinach pies, and got distracted a few times along the way!). Cencioni are about four times the size of regular orecchietti, and are flatter and somewhat rose petal like with an upturned end. They take approximately 20-25 minutes to cook.

Lastly was a beautiful swordfish steak care of the Victoria Market. The steak was easily an inch thick, and had been butterflied for easy cooking.

And what does this all make? Well excuse the bit-o-this and bit-o-that-ness to the recipe, as this is something I cooked up on the fly. But it is inspired by a traditional Puglian dish, orecchiette with broccoli.

Cencioni with Swordfish and Broccoli di Rape
Serves 2

250g Cencioni
1 bunch of Broccoli di Rape
1 swordfish steak (enough for two portions)
4-6 anchovies
2 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 tsp crushed dried chilli flakes
Olive oil, at least a couple of tablespoons (and perhaps a glug or two more)
Sea salt flakes and cracked black pepper
Finely grated rind of 1 lemon
Juice of 1 lemon
Handful of grated Parmigiano

Method:

• Put a large pot of salted water on to boil.
• Prepare the broccoli by cutting into 5cm long lengths. You want to separate the bits into three piles - stalk, stems and leaves. The reason for this? Well, they will cook at varying times, and you really don't want to overcook the broccoli (it goes mushy).
• Heat up a large saute/fry pan and cook the seasoned swordfish steak (salt and pepper) in a little olive oil. Don't overcook - err on the side of being underdone than overdone (it will cook further later). Remove from the pan and place to the side.
• When the water is boiling, throw in the cencioni. Remember, these will take about 20-25 minutes to cook. At about the 10 minute mark throw the broccoli stalks into the pasta water - these will take the longest to cook. At the 15 minute mark, throw in the stems.
• Whilst the pasta and broccoli is cooking, place the saute/fry pan back onto a very low heat and give it a generous glug of olive oil. Throw in the chopped garlic, anchovies and crushed dried chilli flakes. You want to break up the anchovies and smoosh them around in the olive oil, which will impart a meaty/salty flavour to the dish (and surprisingly, not a fishy one). Keep an eye on the garlic and don't let it burn. It will just turn bitter.
• Cut the swordfish into chunks and finely grate the lemon rind directly onto the fish (use a microplane if you have one). The heat from the fish should help to release some of the oils in the lemon rind.
• Check the cencioni for doneness - they should be al dente without seeing flour in the bite. Drain the cencioni, reserving half a cup of the cooking liquor.
• Place the broccoli leaves into the saute/fry pan and cook for a minute until wilted. Toss in the drained cencioni and broccoli, coating the pasta and leaves in the anchovy/oil/garlic/chilli, using an extra glug of olive oil, lemon juice and pasta cooking water if the dish is looking a bit dry. You may also need to add some extra seasoning at this stage, although the anchovies should provide the necessary salt. Taste it and see.
• When the pasta looks nicely coated, toss through the swordfish and a little parmigiano. You don't want to mix it too much after this, else the swordfish will break up. You want nice big chunks. Serve, with an extra sprinkle of parmigiano.
• Enjoy with a chilled glass of Sauvignon Blanc, and the one you love.
  

Tsukiji - the one in Prahran and not in Japan

237 High Street, Prahran
Phone 03 9510 2318

Some may have noticed a certain affection for Japanese cuisine in our blog of late, but that is only because in 28 days, EG and I jet off for four weeks in Japan - not that I'm counting ;-) So it was no surprise when trundling down High Street, Prahran on the tram that I spotted a place that blipped on my Japan-radar.

Tsukiji is a small shop named after the Tsukiji Market in Tokyo, Japan, which is the biggest wholesale fish market in the world. The market is renowned for moving approximately 2000 metric tonnes of fish and seafood per day, and whilst Tsukiji (Prahran) is not so prolific, it does provide a pleasing range of piscatorial products.

Tsukiji (Prahran) straddles a few different business fronts - it is part sashimi fishmonger, Japanese grocer and lunch spot. A custom made pine sushi-style counter seats ten in single file - a utilitarian spot to stop and eat and admire the black and white photos of the Tsukiji Market in Japan. The menu is small - you have a choice of a few handrolls of the day, curry don, miso, sashimi set, una don (eel on rice - which looked VERY good) or takoyaki (octopus balls). There are also a few sweets - Japanese ice-creams and taiyaki (red ben cakes).

We couldn't resist the $10 sashimi set or the opportunity to order in Japanese (we have been taking classes) - "Sashimi seto futatsu kudasai". They obviously understood as a few minutes later two trays arrived (above). The set included a rich miso broth that was studded with shards of spring onion and tofu, a small dish of seaweed salad and a warm bowl of Japanese pearl-like rice. The best bit was the plate of super fresh sashimi - tiles of firm red tuna, salmon, king dory and blue-eye. What I found most interesting was the two different cuts of blue-eye, which showed just how not all parts of the fish are equal. One part was tender and soft, whilst the other was firm and to the tooth. A good skill of the chef no doubt. The dish was absolutely delightful - it was pureness and simplicity on a plate.

As mentioned above, Tsukiji also operates as it's namesake, a market for fish and other seafood products. It is not like your regular monger though, as you won't find much in the way of whole fish etc. But you will find trays of ready cut chunks of fish, prepared for sashimi/sushi. There are your popular items such as tuna and salmon, but a few unusual ones pop up, such as whole small whiting, octopus, arc shell, clams, scallops etc.

Along with the cafe and fishmongery is the grocery part of the store, selling large bags of rice, an impressive array of sauces, seaweeds, noodles, and Japanese junk food. There is even a couple of hunks of frozen wagyu in the freezer. Tsukiji is a nicely set out store that has certainly added to our excitement for our forthcoming trip.

Hooked

172 Chapel Street, Windsor (near High Street)
Phone 03 9529 1075

Avast me hearties! Mel and I have been hooked by Prahran's Hooked. As far as fish and chippers go, it doesn't get any better than this. Located near the corner of High Street and Chapel, the first thing that draws your attention is the nautical decor of this neat little shopfront. Buoys, roped bollards, interesting wall stencils, and a shark-shaped fish aquarium provide a fun atmosphere without being over the top kitschy. Take-away is, of course, popular but you can also eat in at a long communal table with such weathered patina that it appears constructed from the hull of an old clipper. Interestingly, Hooked also allows BYO.

The menu includes a choice of flake, barramundi, snapper and salmon, filleted fresh on site and available beer battered or grilled in a range of special boxes and combinations. You can also get fish burgers, calamari (grilled or salt & pepper), scallops, octopus and king prawns, and there are daily blackboard specials. Chips are hand-cut, and tartare sauce, pesto and other sauces are hand-made. Healthy sides include a fabulous salad of mixed leaf, tomato, cucumber, bbq corn, ginger, bean sprouds and kumera crisps - good enough to order on its own, and will definitely rid you of scurvy. Arrrgh. You can also get tempura vegetables if you want to appear semi-healthy ;)

Packaging is very smart indeed - see above. I had the flake, whilst Mel had the barramundi in a light tempura batter with hand cut chips, home made tartare and lemon, and salad ($12.50).

What can I say - the flake was delicious. A fantastic beer batter ensured that the fish was oh so moist inside. The chips were hand hewn fritters of flavour that went a treat with good ol' Heinz ketchup. Mel's barra was also fantastic. What surprised us the most was the Hooked salad - not just the best salad that I've had in a gourmet fish and chipper but one of the best salads I've had ever! Crunchy, healthy and delicious, the Japanese-style pickled ginger and the BBQ'd corn added surprising yet tasty touches to the salad. I love the fact that Hooked tried to balance out the unhealthy with healthy options.

I know I've been waxing lyrical about what is essentially deep fried takeout, but Hooked is seriously good and highly recommended. It's not as cheap as your usual suburban fish and greasies but quality and flavour are high, and I love the thought that has gone into the place. You Prahran people are so lucky!

Yong Tau Foo

Yong Tau Foo is a rather wonderful temple-foody dish commonly eaten in Singapore and Malaysia. It falls into the realm of health conscious fare by being low in fat, low in carbs and high in protein.

Above you will see a variety of yong tau foo, or vegetables/tofu stuffed with fish paste purchased at the Springvale Market. This included firm split okra that had not turned slimy, blanched sweet eggplant, earthy reconstituted shitake, cooked and no-longer-bitter green capsicum, tofu skin parcels and silken tofu blocks (oooh, these were *really* goood!). The fish paste didn't taste "fishy" at all, and had been seasoned perfectly with white pepper. A couple of bouncy fish balls had also been thrown in for good measure.

EG's Mum (isn't she great) had prepared a light flavoursome anchovy and soybean stock (I so need to get the instructions and recipe for this!). To construct the dish we put the stock into a pot and popped the yong tau foo in the liquid to warm up. As soon as the liquid came to the boil we pulled it off the heat and poured it over rice vermicelli.

Serve with a devastatingly hot chilli sauce and a box of tissues (...the chilli and the heat is guaranteed to make your nose run!). The dish is all about the texture of the individual elements and the appreciation of oh-so-simple flavours. The cloudy softness of the tofu, the denseness of the vegetables, the rubbery-ness of the fish balls, the flavour of the stock and the kick of the chilli. One can not help but feel virtuous after consummation.

EG's Baked Wild Barramundi with Lemon, Fennel & Herbs

EG and I decided to kick off our New Year festivities with a home cooked meal and a bottle of vintage Mumm. What better way to say farewell to what has been an absolutely amazing year.

We started off with a trip to the Vic Market for some supplies. Unfortunately we arrived rather late - so our initial choice of a whole baked fish had to be replaced with a couple of fillets of wild barramundi. We then hit the organic fruit/veg stall for some wonderful produce. A quick snack of a parsley and cheese borek and a doughnut satisfied the lunch rumbles, then on to the bread purveyor - oh no, all run out! Think think...a quick trip to Melbourne Central and a Bakers Delight Pane di Casa did the trick.

Now back to EGs place for some tag team cooking. EG was in charge of the fish. I was in charge of the salad.

The recipe for the fish was inspired by the Jamie Oliver technique of chucking everything into a foil bag and bunging it in the oven. This bakes and steams the meat, ensuring it remains tender and moist. But more importantly - the wonderful flavour stays locked in.

The recipe for the salad was inspired by what looked good at the market. Red Otway baby potatoes, green beans, avocado and lemons.

EG's Baked Wild Barramundi with Lemon, Fennel & Herbs
700g Barramundi Fillets (2 x 350g ish)
1 Red Onion, sliced thinly
1 Bulb of Fennel, sliced thinly
1 Medium Lemon, sliced thinly
Juice of 2 Lemons
2-3 big handfuls Herbage of choice (in this case marjoram, parsley, basil, fennel tops, bay)
Good extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt flakes and cracked black pepper

Preheat oven to 220 degrees Celsius. Prepare foil bag by joining two pieces of foil on the long edge and folding over a 1cm hem twice. One side will be the base, the other side the top (when folded over). Place the foil bag on a baking tray for stability.

On the base foil place a trivet of sliced onions, fennel, half the lemon slices and half the herbs. Lay the fish on top of the vegetables/herbs, season with sea salt and cracked black pepper, and then lay the remaining lemon slices and herbs on top. Pour on the lemon juice and then drizzle generously with olive oil.

Place the top foil over the fish and seal all edges to make an airtight bag.

Cook for 25 minutes. Remove from oven and let settle for a few minutes before piercing the bag and allowing the steam to escape (be careful). Serve on a platter.

The accompanying salad
This is just a quick throw together salad of boiled organic red otway chats, blanched green beans and sliced avocado dressed in lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, salt and cracked black pepper. Quantities are not crucial - just make enough veg to satisfy, and then perhaps a 2:1 lemon to oil dressing. Season well.

The verdict
Seriously, this fish dish absolutely rocked. The barra was meltingly tender and sweet, the fennel and onion had cooked down and infused with the herby fishy lemony juices. Soaking this up with a hunk of bread was totally satisfying. And the lemon dressing on the salad partnered superbly well with the fish. An absolute winner of a dish that will surely be made again and again. EG - you are a wonderful chef!

The Mumm - well that was just friggin amazing as well. You can't beat those French bubbles.

Baked Almond Ocean Trout

The main Christmas protein dish this year was inspired by Donna Hay magazine. The minute I spied the recipe in the Dec/Jan 07 issue, I knew I just had to give it a whirl. Once again, I have tweaked the recipe somewhat.

Baked Almond Ocean Trout
125g flaked almonds
2 tbs lemon rind
1/4 cup chopped chives
1/4 cup chopped parsley
2 1/2 cups panko crumbs
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Sea salt and cracked black pepper
2kg ocean trout (ask the monger to fillet into sides)
1/4 cup olive oil, and extra for drizzling

Preheat the oven to 210 degrees Celsius.

Place the almonds, panko, lemon rind, herbs, eggs, seasoning and oil into a bowl and stir to combine. Place the mixture over one of the trout sides and sandwich with the other (skin to the outside). Secure the two sides together with kitchen string; an extra pair of hands here will be extremely useful. Place onto a baking paper lined tray and drizzle with olive oil. Season again with sea salt flakes and cracked black pepper.

Roast for 30 minutes or until the fish is golden and cooked through. Remove from oven and leave to settle for a few minutes before slicing.

Serves 10.

This was then served along with the following Christmas feast items:

Finger Food
Antipasto
Smoked Salmon & Goats Cheese Tartlets
Mini Arancini

Mains
Crunchy hasselback chat potatoes
Green beans & broccolini with a bacon balsamic dressing
Lentil, Beetroot and Goats Cheese Salad
Basil Marinated Tomato Salad
Parmesan Cos Salad
Prawn & Avocado Salad
Crab Salad
Roasted Red Peppers
Beef Cotoletta
Turkish Bread

Dessert
Mum's Christmas Cake
Ultimate Fruit Meringue with Vanilla Cream
Tordilli

It was a wonderful feast made all the more palatable by good champagne/wine, great conversation and my lovely family. But dang...we'll be eating the leftovers for days! :-)

A joyous season to all.