In the residential backstreets of Itsukushima sits a quaint little restaurant that has been serving up anagomeishi, eel in a spicy sauce over rice, since the Meiji era.  We almost walked right past the door, such was its innocuousness.

A quick digression – the large wooden [...]]]> 125-2 Miyajima-cho, Itsukushima

In the residential backstreets of Itsukushima sits a quaint little restaurant that has been serving up anagomeishi, eel in a spicy sauce over rice, since the Meiji era.  We almost walked right past the door, such was its innocuousness.

A quick digression – the large wooden shakushi (spatula) hanging above the window to the right is used to scoop cooked rice. Apparently the implement was invented by a local Monk, and as such, you can find replicas in just about every souvenir store across the island.  And for those who can’t get enough shakushi, there is even a giant 5 metre version!

The meal was simple, but in that, it was purely magnificent.  To the left, a clear smoky osuimono broth looking rockpool-like with pippies and floating coriander stalks, tasting of the fresh sea.  A small dish of homemade tsukemono (pickles) were to add a nice contrast to what was to come. Then there was the bowl with the wooden drop lid.

Underneath was the most perfectly cooked Japanese pearl rice layered with thin slices of sweet sea eel, grilled to caramelly and smokey goodness.   There was silence and smiles at the table as Dan and I consumed our bowls. This was one we didn’t want to end.

Excuse me while I break with normal programming to take you back to some of the highlights (foodie and otherwise) of our trip to Japan in October 2007.

From Hiroshima, a short JR ferry ride will see you at Itsukushima Island, more popularly known as Miyajima.  The island is home to [...]]]>

Excuse me while I break with normal programming to take you back to some of the highlights (foodie and otherwise) of our trip to Japan in October 2007.

From Hiroshima, a short JR ferry ride will see you at Itsukushima Island, more popularly known as Miyajima.  The island is home to the Itsukushima Shrine (above), which is considered both a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of Japan’s official National Treasure.  I personally think it is more well known for gracing the front cover of just about every tourist brochure ever created for Japan.

The torii (Shinto shrine gate) dates back to the 12th century, although this version was rebuilt in 1875.  At 16 metres high it is made of camphor wood, and at high tide appears to float in the water.  At low tide, you can actually walk right up to the gate across the mud flats, and visitors place coins in the cracks of the wood to make a wish.

We stayed overnight on the island and were fortunate to experience the gate in all its sunset and nightlit glory.

But I get ahead of myself.  Earlier in the day we took the cable car and then hiked up the holy Mt.Misen (535 metres).  This thirty minute stairclimb was literally breathtaking, and afforded some spectacular views along the way.  Dotted along the trail were a number of small shrines – good spots to stop and rest.  The mountain is inhabited by a local wild monkey, although they were feeding in the forest by the time we arrived.  They can be a little demanding though, so be sure to follow the posted instructions.

The island is alsom home to some other unusual residents.  Deer are considered sacred in Shinto, the native religion of Japan, as they are considered messengers of the Gods. As such, they are afforded roaming and protection rights and walk freely around the island.

Generally they are docile creatures, although they can be mischevious little buggers and will eat anything you might be holding in your hand (food, passports, maps etc). They can also get quite territorial, such as the two young bucks locking heads above.

After that little squirmish, the deer took flight and jumped into the water and ran away.

Behind the torii gate is the Shrine itself, which is also built in the water.  We were lucky enough to witness a Shinto rite in action. This procession of black and white clad men made for an interesting contrast against the vermillion.

I wasn’t able to garner much information about the rite, but I gather it was to offer food and drink to the temple and/or Gods?  This is some of the practitioners offering up trays of food and drink.

Sake is also offered up to Gods, and barrels upon barrels of the stuff can be found stacked in the floating corridors.

Coming up next…the food we ate on the Island.